Posted on October 27th, 2009 by Colin and is posted in Growth
Yesterday we had a short surfing trip in Tarifa, a beautiful and magical place in Andalucía Southern Spain, just 45 minutes from where we live. It’s laid back and an ocean lovers’ paradise with plenty of unspoilt white sandy beaches.
My eldest son Sonnie and I spend a couple of hours in the magical surf. As we were getting out of our wet suits with that amazing glow that comes from time in surf I wondered if other sporting activities, like tennis, golf, and running give others this level of spiritual fulfillment. I certainly don’t get the same level of contentment or spiritual connection from running! When it comes to surfing I always feel more fulfilled and content when I come out than when I went in, no matter what the surf conditions.
In fact, I’d go as far as saying time in the surf is often my salvation from the exciting but stress filled corporate world I spend a majority of my time in. I know I’m not alone in my experience. Most surfers I’ve spoken to, no matter what age, or nationality say the same thing – catching a wave is a spiritual experience.
So I’m thinking, what is it about surfing that makes it a spiritual experience for me?
Is it the mind, body, spirit, and universe union? Maybe it’s the time alone and solitude out back, the time to think about my life, about what my place is in the world? Is it the profound connection with the ocean, the chance to learn, listen and play with nature? Could it be the realisation of the oceans immense power and primal force that leads to a unique and unforgettable sense of one’s place in a larger universe? Is it the facing of my fears, learning to trust, and being in the flow? Maybe it’s the shift in my perception of time – 2hrs can seem like 30 minutes. Is it the feeling of exhilaration that comes from riding on a pulse of nature’s energy? Or is it the detachment from civilisation, a man made world that’s been flattened, concreted, fenced, bricked and paved, to play in mother natures back garden?
Maybe it’s a combination of all of the above.
What ever it is I’m grateful that surfing leaves me feeling energized, relaxed and peaceful. When I’m up on the wave, it’s just beautiful. It’s how birds must feel when they fly.